Bottle Capper Headset Yearly PM
This procedure outlines the annual preventive maintenance of the bottle capper headset to identify wear, complete necessary servicing, and verify proper operation before returning it to service.
Bottle Capper Headset Yearly PM
The aim is to maintain the headset’s condition and performance through annual inspection, cleaning, lubrication, and replacement of worn components as required. Preventive maintenance helps ensure consistent cap application, reduce sealing defects, and minimize unexpected equipment downtime.
1. CAPPER TURRET - Raise the turret to allow adequate clearance for removing and installation of the Headsets and Anti-Rotation Knives.
2. GUARDS AND COVERS - Remove any necessary Guards to provide access to the Headset(s) and Anti-Rotation Knives.
3. ANTI-ROTATION KNIVES - Remove the 2 anti-rotation knives directly under the 2 headsets that require rebuilding. Replace with NEW anti-rotation knives.
4. HEADSET INSPECT - Before removing the Headset, check the wear between the Mounting Hub and the Upper Housing while the Headset is still on the Capping Machine. (4a) - Place a Dial Indicator on the Capper and secure it to measure the in/out play of the Headset at the bottom of the Lower Housing. Perform this inspection on all 18 headsets. (No need to test the 2 headsets that you will be removing for the rebuild)
4-b. Grasp the Spindle Shaft just above the Headset and push (and HOLD) with approximately 10 pounds of force to remove Spindle play.
4-c. Push/pull the bottom of the Headset in the direction of the indicator point while pushing on the Spindle. Note the movement of the Headset at the bottom of the Torque Ring/Lower Magnet Carrier assembly. The total movement should not exceed .060 inches; if it does, check the Upper Housing and Mounting Hub for wear. Replace if the wear specification is exceeded.
HEADSET REMOVAL
5. HEADSET - Unlock the Headset from the spindle by inserting the Spanner Wrench Pin into a slot in the Upper Housing and turning the Wrench clockwise (right-hand threads)
***CAUTION!*** DO NOT use the large Spanner Wrench on the Lower Housing to remove the Headset from the Spindle Shaft. Doing so may loosen the joint between the Upper Housing and the Lower Housing. Once loose, the Lower Housing could separate from the Headset, causing machine damage or personal injury. the Headset from the spindle by inserting the Spanner Wrench Pin into a slot in the Upper Housing and turning the Wrench clockwise (right-hand threads)
6. Place one hand under the end of the Headset and support its weight (approximately 10 pounds) to keep it from falling. Failure to properly support the Headset may result in hand injury or damage to the Headset or the Knives below it). Unscrew the Headset from the Spindle.
7. After removing the (2) Headsets and (2) Spindle Assemblies, Install (2) previously cleaned and rebuilt Headsets and Spindle Assemblies in their position. Take the (2) Head Sets and Spindle Assemblies you just removed to the maintenance shop for cleaning and rebuilding.
8. Removed the Cap Chucks by unscrewing it from the Headset using two Spanner Wrenches
9. HEADSET SETTINGS - Remove the two Locking Screws from the Top Load Hub and loosen the Top Load Collar Locking Screw, using the 3mm Hex Key. Unscrew the Top Load Collar and remove the Top Load Spring. (a.) Record the Top Load Collar Setting so you will know where to put it back to during re-assembly. (b) Also record the position of the static torque from the face of the Headset to help during re-assembly
10. HEADSET ASSEMBLY FIXTURE - Clamp the HT6 Headset Assembly Fixture in a vise. If the Fixture is not used, components can be easily damaged by a vise or Channel Lock pliers
11. Invert the headset as shown, so that the Top Load Hub engages with the Fixture. Using the 80 to 90 mm Spanner Wrench on the Upper Housing, unscrew the Top Load Hub. The Oring can now be removed.
12. The Upper Housing can now be placed into the Fixture so that it rests on the Pins. Use the 80 to 90 mm Spanner Wrench to unscrew the Torque Assembly from the Drive Assembly.
13. The Mounting Hub can now be pushed down through the Upper Housing. The Drive Pins, Upper Housing O-Ring, and Mounting Hub Oring can now be removed.
14. Disassemble the Torque Assembly, place the HT6 Fixture in the vise, line up the square cut in the Quill with the Fixture, and place the Torque Assembly on the Fixture.
15. Use the Quill Socket to remove the Upper Quill and then remove the Lower Quill, Bearing and Bearing Spacer. Use a 2.5 mm Hex Key to remove the Set Screw.
16. DRIVEN DISC - Assemble the Shaft Gauge, Nut Gauge and Bolt Gauge as shown. Screw the Nut Gauge fully into the Lower Housing and screw the Shaft Gauge and Bolt Gauge just to seat them on the Driven Disk. Turn slowly the Shaft Gauge to push the Driven Disk and Lower Magnet Assembly out of the Lower Housing. Once the Driven Disk and Lower Magnet Assembly will be out of the Lower Housing, unscrew the Bolt Gauge and set the assemblies aside on a dry and clean place.
The Headset components are now ready for cleaning and inspection. NEVER DISSASSEMBLE the Magnet Assembly except under the direction of qualified CSI personnel.
17. CLEANING - Thoroughly clean all Headset parts of dust, dirt, oil, grease and/or product buildup with Dawn Dishwashing soap and hot water.
18. MOUNTING HUB - Using Outside Micrometers, measure the OD of the Mounting Hub in a number of places checking for wear. If the OD measures less than 1.936”, it should be replaced.
19. UPPER HOUSING - Using a Bore Gauge, measure the ID of the Upper Housing in a number of places checking for wear. If the ID measures more than 1.941”, it should be replaced.
DRIVE ASSEMBLY REBUILD
20. DRIVE ASSEMBLY - Replace all normal wear parts (highlighted) and any other worn parts to the Drive Assembly. Lightly lube all O-Rings and drive pins with food grade grease. Lightly add food grade never seize to all threaded assemblies. Finally, use Loctite 242 on bolts and locking screws.
Source: Pepsi Co (Community Member)

















