1 WEEK RAIL SWITCH INSPECTION - WINTER
1 WEEK RAIL SWITCH INSPECTION - WINTER
Remove all snow from the switch stand, switch points, and surrounding rail area. This area should be cleaned out to a depth of at least ½ the height of the ties or more.
Use a leaf blower, shovel, broom, & chisel.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Remove any debris from between the switch point and the adjacent rail.
Material build up can cause the switch from moving properly.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Inspect the 2 connecting rods and their clips for wear and damage.
If the rods or clips are touching the ties, it will make the switch difficult to throw. You can chip out a piece of the tie to clear the rod or move the ties to clear the switch rod. A little oil could also help.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Fully actuate the switch and lock the handle in place. Verify the switch point has closed all the way and has no gap between the tip of the point and the adjacent rail.
If there's a gap, check to see if anything is stuck between the points and rail. If not, switch may be out of adjustment. Call rail contractor for further instructions.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Inspect both switch points for cracks or damage from the tips of the points.
If there's damage, weld and grind as needed. Call rail contractor for further instructions on proper method of repair.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Call rail contractor for further instructions. Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Verify all hardware on the heel blocks is in place and tight.
Heel blocks are where the thick ends of the points attach to the next rail within the switch. It's normal for these to be slightly loose but they should not spin with your fingers.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Call rail contractor for further instructions. Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Verify the switch stand does not have any play and verify that all hardware is in place and tight.
Is the connecting rod beneath the switch stand rubbing on the adjacent ties? Are there any parts that are bent, cracked or broken in the casting? These can be a cause for a gapped switch point. Call rail contractor for further instructions.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Call rail contractor for further instructions. Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Inspect the rail near the rail switch for damage and defects such as flowed edged, slivers, cracks, & shelling.
Flowed edges and slivers are minor defects that can be ground smooth with an angle grinder. Other defects need to be reported immediately. If ginding is necessary only remove protruding metal. Do not grind into the rail.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
Contact the appropriate presonnel immediately to stop the use of the rail section. Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Remove all debris from between each switch tie in the switch point area. Throughoughly clean the ties with switch rods between them.
This area should be cleaned out to a depth of 1/2 the height of the ties.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
If there is any damage, proper switch identification is crucial for ordering replacements. Stand in front of the switch points facing the narrowest part of the point (the tips).
The switch point to your right is called the right-hand switch point, the point to the left is called the left-hand switch point. If a switch point requires replacement, the contractor will need this info.
if the answer is "noneOf [PASS]"
If a switch point requires replacement, the contractor will need this info. Record findings from the inspection. Service at time of inspection or request follow-up work with details in the work log.
Clean off the old grease build up.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Apply anti-seize to all exposed threads on switch rods and bolts as needed.
The switch point to your right is called the right-hand switch point, the point to the left is called the left-hand switch point. If a switch point requires replacement, the contractor will need this info.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Lubricate the 4 critical points on the switch stand.
Use Type H grease. These are typically located on top near the switch target, on top of the cover near the handle, and the handle beneath the stand where the turnbuckle comes out the bottom of the stand.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Lubricate the rest of the points for the internal spring mechanism on the switch stand.
Use Type H grease.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Lubricate each of the slide plates that the points slide on.
Apply EZ-Slide grease with a brush. There is likely to be slight wear on the plates where the points slide.
if the answer is "oneOf [No]"
Please provide reasoning as to why this was not completed during the inspection.
Source: Cambria (Community Member)
