Troubleshooting Guide: Burner Power

Check that the fuel is full.
Check the power between the positive and negative battery posts: you should have 13.8 Vdc.
While checking the power, look at the wire connections and see if the wire has been burned, loose, or broken.
Check for zip ties that are too tight and causing wires to bend or break and use a voltmeter to test for continuity.

Pre-2020, there should be 12Vdc between the red () to black (negative -) wire and the white excite (positive +) to black (negative -) wire on the burner plug?
Current machines: there should be 12Vdc between the yellow (lead positive +) and the black (negative -) wire on the burner plug, and there should be 12Vdc between the green Excite wire and the black (negative -) wire on the burner plug.
The brown wire is the burner alarm.
If you have good power on both wires. Then go to the Buner Troubleshooting.

Pre-2020, the red wire from the burner plug to the burner solenoid large right-side post should have 12Vdc. The white wire from the burner Plug to the solenoid first goes to the smaller post to the left of the red wire. It also has the green Excite wire from the control panel.
On the current machines, there should be 12Vdc from the red wire to the steel post on the burner relay located under the battery. Check for 12Vdc on the brass post from the burner relay to the positive + post on the battery.

The posts on the large post on the left side are where the power comes in from the battery; there should be 12Vdc from the battery.
The next post to the right is small: the Ground.
The next post to the right is small. It’s the Excite wire. You should have 12Vdc on this tab post, which is fed from the HTO PAKSATAT tab post #7 grey wire.
The far-right post should have 12Vdc to feed the burner.
Check the Volts from the Battery to the Circuit Breaker (located under the battery)

There are five posts on the Relay, but we only use 4.
The Post marked #86 Black wire is the ground wire. Check this wire's continuity to the control panel ground.
The Post marked #30, Red wire marked (RED-CH1-D), is the feed from the burner relay under the battery; this should have 12Vdc.
The Post marked #85 white/red is the Excite wire. It should have 12Vdc and is fed from the Burner reset toggle switch.
The Post marked #87 Yellow wire with a label (YEL-CH1-E) this leads to the burner this should have 12Vdc.

HTO-Tab post #3 with the orange wire marked (ORN-1), should have 12Vdc. This power is supplied from the Burner Reset switch, leading to the burner power toggle switch. This wire is also connected to the Material PAKSTAT control board on posts (T1, T3, and T9), 12Vdc.
HTO-Tab post #5 with the black wire marked (BLK-1) is the ground.
HTO-Tab post #6 with the gray wire marked (GRY-1) should have 12Vdc coming from the Material PAKSTAT board T4 (Tab).
HTO-Tab post #7 pre-2020, this post was a gray wire. The current wire color is Green (GRN-CH1-S). This wire is split and feeds the light.
Material- Tab posts T1, T3, and T9 are marked with orange wire (ORN-), which should have 12Vdc. This is the power feeding the PAKSTAT. When the temperature reaches 275°, the PAKSTAT will be fed power.
Material – Tab post T2 red wire (RED-CH1-L) which should have a 12V DC. This supply powers the LED light and activates the wand trigger when the temperature reaches 330°. The wire connects to the hose connection box at the machine's rear. Material – Tab post #T4 blue wire (BLU-CH1-B) should have 12Vdc and this is the hose excite wire.

HTO and Material PAKSTATS- both have tab posts T7 and T6 lead directly to the RTD sensors and are connected under the cap by small screws.
The color of the Material RTD wires is black with a white stripe.
The color of the HTO RTD wires is green with a white strip.
Use a voltmeter to test for Ω.
You will need to compare the numbers to the RTD chart in the manual.
Ensure the material RTD sensor has heat transfer oil in the tube it is mounted to; this will ensure the sensor is reading the correct temperature.
Clean off the sensors; the coking buildup can cause misreading and can cause the burner to turn off early.

The fuel solenoid should have 15-25 ohms to ensure it's good.
If the reading is outside the parameters, you must replace the solenoid.

Make sure the Burner is off. Open the igniter (located atop the burner).
Check the resistance between each of the springs and the ground.
The meter should be less than 2000 ohms.
Replace the igniter when.
The difference between the two springs' ground resistance readings is greater than 20 %
Or the spring-to-spring resistance does not read approximately twice the spring to ground.

Remove the cord set from the fuel solenoid.
Check the ohms between the terminals of the solenoid.
The reading should be between 15-25 ohms (good).
If the reading is outside the above range or the meter indicates an open circuit, replace the fuel solenoid.

Using a 3/8” flare wrench, loosen the bleeder valve on the fuel pump.
Toggle the burner switch to “ON”
The burner will turn on.
Pre-2020, now go to the bleed nipple and crack it open.
Once the fuel is a good, solid stream, the burn turns on.
Close the bleed nipple.
Current machines toggle the burner reset switch; this may take multiple times.

Install the plug into the fuel inlet please see the picture.

Check Power:

Check that the fuel is full.

Check the power between the positive and negative battery posts: you should have 13.8 Vdc.

While checking the power, look at the wire connections and see if the wire has been burned, loose, or broken.

Check for zip ties that are too tight and causing wires to bend or break and use a voltmeter to test for continuity.

Burner Plug:

Pre-2020, there should be 12Vdc between the red () to black (negative -) wire and the white excite (positive +) to black (negative -) wire on the burner plug?

Current machines: there should be 12Vdc between the yellow (lead positive +) and the black (negative -) wire on the burner plug, and there should be 12Vdc between the green Excite wire and the black (negative -) wire on the burner plug.

The brown wire is the burner alarm.

If you have good power on both wires. Then go to the Buner Troubleshooting.

From the Burner Plug to PAKSTAT/Battery:

Pre-2020, the red wire from the burner plug to the burner solenoid large right-side post should have 12Vdc. The white wire from the burner Plug to the solenoid first goes to the smaller post to the left of the red wire. It also has the green Excite wire from the control panel.

On the current machines, there should be 12Vdc from the red wire to the steel post on the burner relay located under the battery. Check for 12Vdc on the brass post from the burner relay to the positive + post on the battery.

The burner Solenoid Pre-2020:

The posts on the large post on the left side are where the power comes in from the battery; there should be 12Vdc from the battery.

The next post to the right is small: the Ground.

The next post to the right is small. It’s the Excite wire. You should have 12Vdc on this tab post, which is fed from the HTO PAKSATAT tab post #7 grey wire.

The far-right post should have 12Vdc to feed the burner.

Check the Volts from the Battery to the Circuit Breaker (located under the battery)

Current Burner Relay. (This replaced the solenoid):

There are five posts on the Relay, but we only use 4.

The Post marked #86 Black wire is the ground wire. Check this wire's continuity to the control panel ground.

The Post marked #30, Red wire marked (RED-CH1-D), is the feed from the burner relay under the battery; this should have 12Vdc.

The Post marked #85 white/red is the Excite wire. It should have 12Vdc and is fed from the Burner reset toggle switch.

The Post marked #87 Yellow wire with a label (YEL-CH1-E) this leads to the burner this should have 12Vdc.

HTO/ Material PAKSAT:

HTO-Tab post #3 with the orange wire marked (ORN-1), should have 12Vdc. This power is supplied from the Burner Reset switch, leading to the burner power toggle switch. This wire is also connected to the Material PAKSTAT control board on posts (T1, T3, and T9), 12Vdc.

HTO-Tab post #5 with the black wire marked (BLK-1) is the ground.

HTO-Tab post #6 with the gray wire marked (GRY-1) should have 12Vdc coming from the Material PAKSTAT board T4 (Tab).

HTO-Tab post #7 pre-2020, this post was a gray wire. The current wire color is Green (GRN-CH1-S). This wire is split and feeds the light.

Material- Tab posts T1, T3, and T9 are marked with orange wire (ORN-), which should have 12Vdc. This is the power feeding the PAKSTAT. When the temperature reaches 275°, the PAKSTAT will be fed power.

RTD sensors to the PAKSTATS:

HTO and Material PAKSTATS- both have tab posts T7 and T6 lead directly to the RTD sensors and are connected under the cap by small screws.

The color of the Material RTD wires is black with a white stripe.

The color of the HTO RTD wires is green with a white strip.

Use a voltmeter to test for Ω.

You will need to compare the numbers to the RTD chart in the manual.

Ensure the material RTD sensor has heat transfer oil in the tube it is mounted to; this will ensure the sensor is reading the correct temperature.

Clean off the sensors; the coking buildup can cause misreading and can cause the burner to turn off early.

Testing the Burner Solenoid:

The fuel solenoid should have 15-25 ohms to ensure it's good.

If the reading is outside the parameters, you must replace the solenoid.

Testing the DC controller:

Disconnect all the wires.

Connect only the red wire to the positive post.

Connect the white (enable) to the positive post; you will only have 15 seconds the delay lockout.

Connect the black wire to the ground wire to the negative post.

With just the white (enable) attached.

The orange (blower motor) wire should maintain 12Vdc.

The Blue (Igniter) wire should maintain 12Vdc

Twist the yellow wires together (once the voltage registers) on the orange, blue, and purple wires.

Orange (blower motor) wire should maintain 12Vdc

Blue (igniter) wire should lose voltage after 15 seconds

Purple (valve) wire should maintain 12Vdc

Burner Ignition Coil:

Make sure the Burner is off. Open the igniter (located atop the burner).

Check the resistance between each of the springs and the ground.

The meter should be less than 2000 ohms.

Replace the igniter when.

The difference between the two springs' ground resistance readings is greater than 20 %

Or the spring-to-spring resistance does not read approximately twice the spring to ground.

Fuel Solenoid Test:

Remove the cord set from the fuel solenoid.

Check the ohms between the terminals of the solenoid.

The reading should be between 15-25 ohms (good).

If the reading is outside the above range or the meter indicates an open circuit, replace the fuel solenoid.

Bleed the Burner:

Using a 3/8” flare wrench, loosen the bleeder valve on the fuel pump.

Toggle the burner switch to “ON”

The burner will turn on.

Pre-2020, now go to the bleed nipple and crack it open.

Once the fuel is a good, solid stream, the burn turns on.

Close the bleed nipple.

Current machines toggle the burner reset switch; this may take multiple times.

Burner Fuel Line Collapsing:

New burner Replacement (only dual fuel Lines)

Install the plug into the fuel inlet please see the picture.